Concrete Cutting Cutter Maynard MA Mass Massachusetts

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Maynard,Massachusetts a town in Middlesex County, approximately 25miles away in the west from Boston. The town has a total area of 5.4 square miles of which 2.42% is water.

The Assabet River flows through the town from west to east. Seven road bridges and a footbridge can be found along the river within the town. The surrounding towns are Acton, Stow, Sudbury and Concord.

Roads 27, 117 and 62 leads to the town. The MBTA Railway has a stop in South Acton along the Fitchburg line.

History

Originally Maynard village was part of the towns Stow and Sudbury. The citizens of Maynard petitioned for independence at the Court of Massachusetts in 1871. The approval was granted from the state’s end, and Maynard was incorporated as a separate town in 1871. In exchange, the newly incorporated town paid $23600 and $8000 for Stow and Sudbury respectively.

The town was named after Amory Maynard, who alongside with William Knight, bought water rights to the AssabetRiver and installed a huge carpet mill in 1847. The community grew along with the woolen mill and by the US civil war, it gave the highest percentage of wool for the US army for the uniforms. The mill went bankrupt by 1898. It was reopened by the American Woolen Company in 1900, and they began to expand the mill. This resulted in numerous job opportunities, therefore the population of Maynard became higher than that of the surrounding towns together.

The mill shut down in 1950, and part of the property was purchased by the Digital Equipment Corporation in 1957. They began to expand and by 1974, they owned the entire complex. The company stayed in Maynard until Compaq purchased the area. Later on, Hewlett-Packard acquired the former mill.

Population

As of the census of 2010, there were 10,106 residents living in Maynard – that is a 3% decline from 2000.

There were 4,292 households and 2,811 families living in Maynard in 2010. The average size of a household was 2.43, and the average size of a family was 3.02.

The demographic composition of thetown was 23.4% under the age of 18,5.4% between the ages 18 and 24, 35.1% between the ages 25 and 44, 23.8% between the ages 45 and 64, and 12.2% who were 65 years of age or older. In 2010, the median age was 38 years.

The median household income was $60,812 and the median family income was $71,875. The per capita income was $27,016. Approximately 5.6% of the population was below the poverty line.

Education

There are both public and private schooling options in Maynard. There are 3 public schools is the town: the Green Meadow School for pre-graders, the Flower School students for grades 4 through 7, and Maynard High School for grades 8 through 12. There is the Imago Private School as well for children of K through grade 8, which uses a classical Christian Educational Program. The Hudson Maynard Learning Center offers free ult literacy classes.

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Call 800-799-9151

On the same day, as soon as the concrete has set, remove crosswise and center scantlings, place a sheet of tar paper on the edges to separate them from all other squares and fill in the spaces thus left with 3-inch concrete as before. Mark the scantling to show where the joints come. The finishing coat should be i inch thick, of one part Portland cement and one and one-half parts clean, coarse sand, or crushed stone screenings. This coat should be spread on before the concrete has taken its set, and smoothed off with a screed or straight edge run over the 2 x 4 scantlings, the object being to thoroughly bond the finishing coat to the concrete base. If the bond between the finishing coat and the concrete is imperfect, the walk gives a hollow sound under the feet, and is liable to crack after having been down 75 one or two years. Smooth with a wooden float, and groove exactly over the joints between the concrete (Fig. 24), so as to bevel the edges of all blocks. Do not trowel the finishing coat too much, nor until it has begun to stiffen, as this tends to separate the cement from the sand, do producing hair cracks, and giving a poor wearing surface. Keep the finished walks protected from dust, dirt, currents of air and the hot sun during the process of setting, and further protect from the sun and traffic for three or four days, and keep moist by sprinkling. The covering may be whatever is most convenient—sand, straw, sawdust, grass, or boards.

Most walks are made the width of a single block, and should be constructed as shown in Fig. 24. In a walk the width of a single block, make every alternate block and then go back and fill in the blocks between. The foundation for curbs and gutters, like sidewalks, should be governed by the soil and climate. Concrete curbing should be built in advance of the walk in sectional pieces 6 feet to 8 feet long, and separated from each other and from the walk by tar paper or a cut joint, in the same manner as the walk is divided into blocks. Curbs should be 4 inches to 7 inches wide at the top and 5 inches to 8 inches at the bottom, with a face 6 inches to ' inches above the gutter. The curb should stand on a concrete base 5 inches to 8 inches thick, which in turn should have a sub-base of porous material at least 12 inches thick. The gutter should be 16 inches to 20 inches broad, and 6 inches to 9 inches thick, and should also have a porous foundation at least 12 inches thick. Keeping the above dimensions in mind, excavate a trench the combined width of the gutter and curb and put in the sub-base of porous material. On top of this place forms and fill with a layer of concrete, one part Portland Cement, three parts clean, coarse sand and six parts broken stone, thick enough to fill the forms to about 3 inches below the street level. As soon as the concrete is sufficiently set to withstand pressure, place forms for the curb, and, after carefully cleaning the concrete between the forms and thoroughly wetting, fill with concrete, one part Portland Cement, two and one-half parts clean, coarse sand and five parts broken stone. When the curb has sufficiently set to withstand its own weight without bulging, remove the 3/4-inch board shown, and with the aid of a trowel fill in the space between the concrete and the form with cement mortar, one part granulated Portland cement and part clean coarse sand. The finishing coat at the top of the curb should be put on at the same time. Trowel thoroughly and smooth with a wooden float, removing face form the following day. Sprinkle often and protect from sun. In making curbs alone, specifications given below and illustrated in sectional drawing should be followed. Excavate 32 inches below the level of the curb and fill with cinders, broken stone, gravel or broken brick to depth of 12 inches. Build a foundation 8 inches deep by 12 inches broad, one part granulated Portland Cement, three parts clean, coarse sand and six parts broken stone, and from the top of this and nearly flush with the rear, build a concrete wall 111/4 inches high, 7'/4 inches broad at the base and 61/4 inches at the top, the 1-inch slope to be on the face.

Maynard Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling